Day 4 Saturday 22 August 2015

This is the final day of our journey. The passing landscape is captivating. Breakfast and lunch are enjoyable. After packing in preparation for disembarking in Perth this afternoon, we spend the day in the Lounge car eating meals, sampling drinks, chatting with fellow passengers and enjoying the beautiful vistas from the windows. Staff kindly pre-arranges an accessible taxi to meet us at the East Perth Terminal railway station at the completion of the journey.

At journey’s end, I have mixed feelings about this experience. I cannot claim it was easy. That the train’s infrastructure is limiting for those of us with disabilities, is indisputable. That said, climbing Mt Everest is probably not easy, but this doesn’t discourage determined climbers. In my opinion, the train fare was very expensive. Consequently, I held high expectations for my Indian Pacific experience. Regardless of disability, I feel my expectations were not met in some areas. Specifically, I was disappointed with the inconsistency of the meals and the quality of the accommodation. My participation in the off-train experiences in Cook and Rawlinna was unambiguously prevented due to my disability. Moreover, this was particularly disappointing because I believe providing ramp access would not be an impossible exercise. It was provided in Rawlinna for staff, why not for passengers?

Nevertheless, the ability to see parts of our amazing continent from this unique perspective was priceless. I’m satisfied I completed what I set out to do. I travelled 4,352km from one side of our vast Australian continent to the other on the Indian Pacific Railway. It was a rare experience and another challenge faced and conquered. 

I gratefully acknowledge support for this project from a grant awarded by My Choice Matters; the NSW Consumer Development Fund (MCM) and the NSW Government. I also acknowledge and sincerely thank my travel companion. Without her patience, good humour and considerable assistance, my journey may not have been possible.

Day 3 Friday 21 August 2015

Rising early to be greeted by sunrise and the beautiful and impressive views of salt lakes whizzing past our window as the train heads westward, lifts my spirits.

We are becoming accustomed to dining in the Lounge Carriage. There are advantages. We have great views of the landscape through windows on both sides of the train and the air temperature is more comfortable than in our cabin. Breakfast is delicious.

Today we have a whistle-stop in Cook, South Australia. The former town was created in 1917 when the railway was built and is named after the sixth Prime Minister of Australia, Joseph Cook. Today, it is said to have a resident population of four, and is essentially a ghost town. The town was effectively closed in 1997 when the railways were privatised and the new owners no longer needed a support town here. Cook offers little other than curiosity value for passengers and an opportunity to stretch legs and take in some fresh air. Passengers can climb off the train and walk around town.

This evening we stop at Rawlinna, Western Australia, for an ‘outback dining under the stars’ experience. I was advised during the AHR conciliation process I am unable to de-train at either location because neither stop has a station platform. I’m reconciled to the limitations the infrastructure imposes, however I am disappointed I’m unable to participate when I know a simple solution would be for GSR to provide a ramp from our carriage to the ground. Nevertheless, as our journey continues, I am enthralled by the Nullarbor landscape. It is completely different to what I had imagined with more vegetation than I expected and constantly changing panoramas. The vivid colours are amazing ….. Our country is vast, stunningly beautiful and uniquely Australian.

Unable to de-train in historic Cook, I am able to appreciate limited views from the train. Thankfully, my travel companion takes many photos.

After our brief stop in Cook, the train journey, and my delight in the passing scenery, continues for the remainder of the day.

After sundown we pull into Rawlinna, a remote railway siding. The Indian Pacific calls at the siding twice a week in each direction. It's now dark, so there's no view from the train. Forewarned I’m unable to participate in the ‘outback under the stars’ dining experience when we stop in Rawlinna (because there is no platform or ramp from the carriage to the ground), I opt to have dinner in my cabin. I’m assured food is the same as served ‘under the stars’. However, without the atmosphere and conviviality of fellow passengers, and once again, delivered draped in aluminium foil, the quality of the meal is quite ordinary.

My travel companion enjoyed the off-train experience but upon her return, I was taken aback to learn the food was delivered from the train to the diners via a ramp!!!! There may have been a reason the use of this ramp was not an option for me, but an explanation was not offered. As a result, I felt extremely disappointed I had been, perhaps unnecessarily, excluded from participating in this experience.

With everyone once again on-board, we leave Rawlinna. Tonight will be our final night onboard the Indian Pacific. My journey across the Australian continent is almost over. Tomorrow afternoon, we are due to arrive in Perth.  

Day 2 Thursday 20 August 2015

I wake and rise before dawn to prepare for our early morning off-train excursion. I did not sleep well. It was a noisy, rough and jerky overnight passage. The bed was extremely narrow, restricting sleeping positions. The central air-conditioning temperature was too high for my comfort and the cabin felt stuffy. The public address system speaker in our room could not be turned off and emitted a constant static sound. We arrive at Broken Hill at 6.00am. GSR has arranged an accessible taxi and guide for our off-train excursion to the Miner’s Memorial. Despite my weariness, it is a thoroughly enjoyable and educational tour.

We re-join the train and at around 8.30am leave Broken Hill headed towards our next stop, Adelaide. To avoid the discomfort of feeling conspicuous by having breakfast in the Lounge car, we opt to eat in our cabin. Our food is appetising. However when delivered, draped in aluminium foil, the presentation is below what I expect of a five star experience. And unfortunately, the small but important elements of butter, salt and pepper are missing from our breakfast tray.

The passing landscape is extraordinary and the morning passes quickly. Staff are friendly, relaxed and helpful. Lunch in the Lounge carriage is disappointing again. The lamb I order looks, and is, dry and unappetising. However, the remarkable panoramas we view through the window are captivating and I am mesmerised.

We arrive into Adelaide at approximately 3.15pm. GSR has arranged for an accessible taxi to transport us for an overview of the city before joining a walking tour, culminating at The Wine Centre. There is a delay. The taxi is not there. I understand the delay is not within the control of GSR. We wait some time before the taxi arrives. When it does, we head directly to the city centre to join our walking tour guide and a group of other train passengers participating in the tour. Despite the overcast sky and drizzling rain, our walking tour is great. We enjoyed an informative tour of North Terrace in the city centre and as light faded, we wandered through the Botanic Gardens to the Wine Centre. Inside, we sampled some local wine and took a tour of the Wine Centre. This was followed by a delicious dinner at a communal table with all the Indian Pacific travellers participating on this off-train excursion. The return taxi ride to the Adelaide Parklands Terminal delivered us to the train without a hitch. 

When we re-join the train we note there is a change of staff. The previous contingent is replaced with an entirely new group. Also, an apology from the subcontracted off-train excursion manager, for the taxi transfer delay, accompanied by a bottle of wine awaits us. I am pleasantly surprised and grateful for this gracious gesture. It’s late in the evening as we pull out of Adelaide and head northwest.

Reflecting on the day’s events, for me, the highlights of Day 2 were all off the train….the Broken Hill and Adelaide excursions and the beautiful passing panoramas.

Day 1 Wednesday 19 August 2015

Today the adventure begins. My experience thus far has considerably dampened my initial enthusiasm and I feel significant nervousness as I commence the journey. Despite my uneasiness, at the concessional cost of over $600 per person, per night, I have very high expectations for an exceptional three day experience on the Indian Pacific.

Our wheelchair accessible taxi transfer to the airport this morning was (thankfully) on time and stress-free. The flight to Sydney was (mercifully) uneventful. A wheelchair accessible taxi from the airport transported us to Central Station (relatively easily) and after enquiries to ascertain where/when/how to join the Indian Pacific, my friend (who has agreed to be my travel companion) and I enjoyed lunch in the central railway station while we waited for my prearranged meeting with the train manager.

The train manager was very professional and welcoming. He escorted me (on scooter) to our carriage and via a ramp, on-board and then to our cabin. He ascertained the accommodation was suitable and the bathroom appropriately accessible. He then accompanied me (on scooter) to the Lounge Carriage to ensure I could negotiate between the carriages on my scooter. Traversing from one carriage to another on my scooter was tricky but doable. All was going swimmingly until we tried to continue (on scooter) to the Dining Carriage. Despite my most skilful manoeuvres, my small electric travel scooter would not fit around a very tight corner before exiting the Lounge Carriage in order to cross to the Dining Carriage. An easy solution to this minor obstacle is found; In the Lounge, I will transfer to GSR’s on-board push chair in order to cross to the Dining Carriage for meals. I’m overjoyed and hugely relieved the train manager has agreed to allow me to use my own motorised travel scooter on-board!

All aboard……… I’m happy and excited.

Although our room is relatively spacious (as depicted in the floor plan below) on closer observation, my impression is that the cabin is dated and tired. The imitation timber-look wall panelling is peeling, the seat upholstery is faded and some maintenance is required. The magnetic closure on a cupboard door doesn’t work, so the door swings open. We use tissues to jam it closed. The plastic doorstop, behind our main entry door, is broken. We use a luggage strap, tied to the handle, to prop the door open.  By contrast, our bathroom is small yet modern. 

We pull out of Central Station. We are on our way. Passing through Sydney’s suburbs, the view is interesting and the journey up and over the Blue Mountains is picturesque. However, the ride is quite erratic and rocky. Luckily, I’m firmly seated on my electric travel scooter!

As daylight fades into night, we make plans to go to dinner. We are very tired and it’s late. We were offered the last dining sitting as all earlier sitting were taken. To minimise fuss, I decide to transfer to the on-board pushchair in our room and aided by my friend, be pushed through the Lounge car to the Dining car. We quickly discover the pushchair is impossible for my travel companion to manoeuvre. Similar to a shopping trolley, all four wheels are spinning and pointing in different directions, making it a gruelling challenge to push. We ask for assistance from the Restaurant Manager. Despite GSR’s written advice dated 15 May 2015 stating “on-train staff are able to provide direct assistance in the movement of the push-chair during transit” the restaurant manager refuses to assist or allow other staff to render assistance. She agrees the push-chair is antiquated and unwieldy. Her advice is we should make a complaint on the feedback form at the completion of our journey. Feeling deflated and simply too tired to argue, I reluctantly comply with her suggestion to take our meal in the lounge carriage where she would arrange to have a table set for us.

We proceed to the lounge car. We feel conspicuous and uncomfortable seated here for dinner. I’m disappointed with my meal. The soup is cold and my main course meat is overcooked and dry.

We return to our cabin. The train’s infrastructure dictates the back of the seats used by day are folded down and beds are lowered from the wall and positioned over the seats, for night. The beds are consequently, very high and narrow. It is abundantly clear that, if for no other reason, this would make it impossible for me, or anyone confined to a wheelchair, to travel solo on the Indian Pacific.

Day 1 of my Indian Pacific train journey has provided as many highs and lows as a rollercoaster. Overall, with the exception of the excellent customer service extended by the train manager, and the assistance and friendliness of other staff, I’m sorry to say, my first day on the Indian Pacific train has been a little disappointing.

Ever hopeful, I’m optimistic tomorrow will be far better……

The outcome ………

The process of conciliation, facilitated by the Australian Human Rights Commission, to address my complaints against Great Southern Rail resulted in eight outcomes to which both GSR and I have agreed. Although a number of concerns still remain, I have decided to proceed with my plan to take the Indian Pacific journey from Sydney to Perth.

I found the conciliation procedure to be a time-consuming and arduous process. More issues relating to travelling with a disability emerged during the process. GSR’s current Fitness to Travel Policy is dated 2009. The policy states that motorised wheelchairs and scooters are not allowed on-board the train and must be transported in the luggage van, only available at journey’s end. Consequently, if my electric travel scooter must be transported in the luggage van for the duration of the journey, I cannot use it for the off-train excursions offered. This will effectively stop me from participating on the excursions I have paid for in my fare. The accessible cabin described in the Fitness to Travel Policy as the ‘Pullman’ cabin shows photographs depicting a cabin and bathroom that are superseded and completely inaccurate. Additionally, GSR states in the policy it ‘currently has a carriage modification program underway which will include modified lifting devices provided at Alice Springs, Katherine and Darwin by February 2010’. It begs the question, 5 years on, are the lifting devices now provided? If so, why isn’t this information forthcoming? If GSR is referring potential customers with mobility limitations to this policy, I believe they should ensure the policy is up-to-date and relevant.

I am grateful to have the opportunity to express my opinions and discuss and debate the issues that directly affect me, and perhaps others in similar circumstances, when dealing with GSR. I feel hopeful GSR may now be more aware of the challenges disabled people face when travelling, and this awareness may prompt policy and attitudinal changes. I have agreed to GSR’s requirement to keep one of the outcomes of the conciliation process confidential. However, some of the concessions GSR has made are, a ‘once only’ discounted fare for my travel companion; access to my travel scooter for off-train excursions; and if I’m unable to use my travel scooter on-board, to provide direct assistance to me in the movement of the push-chair during transit. I still remain extremely anxious about the possibility of not being able to use my travel scooter on-board the train. But I’m quietly confident I can persuade the train manager to allow it.

Despite on-going trepidation, it’s now time to take a deep breath, recruit a volunteer to accompany me as a travel companion, research flight, accommodation and transfer options, plan an itinerary, make bookings and reservations …. I’m starting to feel hopeful and dare I say, enthusiastic again …

First obstacle…. Oh, No! Already? Really?

As a person with a disability, largely confined to a wheelchair, my plan was to undertake a solo journey on the iconic Indian Pacific Railway. A couple of virtually insoluble hurdles became apparent when on my initial and subsequent phone enquiries to Great Southern Rail (GSR), the owner/operator of the Indian Pacific, I was advised that they can provide a wheelchair accessible cabin aboard the Indian Pacific train, and I can pay a single supplement fare. However, I cannot travel solo!

I’m advised the corridors of the train carriages are narrow and only accommodate the on-board pushchairs provided by GSR, which are unable to be self-propelled. GSR’s Fitness to Travel Policy advises no motorised mobility devices are allowed on-board. To be able to move around the train, to dine in the dining room or to utilise the lounge car, I will need to use the on-board pushchair and I will need assistance to push the on-board pushchair. However, GSR has refused to assist, advising "our staff cannot act as carers".  I must therefore travel with a companion to push the chair.

I further discovered that although I am required to travel with a companion in order to push their on-board wheelchair, GSR do not recognise or accept my NSW government issued Companion Card.  The purpose of the companion card is to assist businesses to comply with legislation and the principles of the Equal Opportunity Act and the Commonwealth Disability Discrimination, usually allowing a companion to be issued with a concession ticket or to travel at no charge. 

The critical implication is that my ‘mandatory’ travel companion will not be entitled to travel at the same concessional fare to which I am entitled, as a Disability Support Pension concession card holder, unless they too are a concession card holder. Unfortunately I don’t know a concession card holder who is physically able, or willing, to act as my 'carer'. GSR advises my only option is to be accompanied by an able-bodied adult and I will be required to pay my concessional fare and the full adult fare for my companion.

I am quite independent. I live alone and manage with the assistance of aids, equipment and with a little help from friends and family members. The notion of being compelled to be totally reliant on someone in order to access the toilet and bathroom, to move around the cabin or anywhere else on the train, combined with being consigned to an unfamiliar and uncomfortable on-board wheelchair, similar to an airline aisle chair, for the duration of my three day journey is, to say the least, disturbing and distressing. These issues could prove to be a very high price to pay for a journey on the epic Indian Pacific train.

I’m not a lawyer. Nevertheless, I believe GSR’s position is discriminatory. Their policies dictate that in order to travel on the Indian Pacific train, I must be accompanied and pay an additional adult fare. Consequently, I will be required to pay more than anyone else to travel; the equivalent of 243% of the fare any other concession card holder is required to pay. GSR’s policies also deny the on-board use of an essential mobility aid, my travel scooter. If unlawful discrimination occurs when someone is treated less favourably than another person because of their disability, as specified under anti-discrimination or human rights legislation, I think GSR’s policies may satisfy this definition.

Undeterred by the considerable barriers imposed by GSR, I am determined to explore every possibility in order to take the Indian Pacific train journey. Therefore, I have decided to submit a complaint to the Australian Human Rights Commission (AHRC). The AHRC will act as a conciliator in my attempt to persuade GSR to reconsider their policies.

I’ll let you know the outcome. I hope I don’t stumble and fall at this first, very high, hurdle ………. 

My journey on the Indian Pacific train

Take a leap of faith……nothing ventured, nothing gained…... What have you got to lose?

Despite these encouraging clichés ringing in my ears, I feel a tinge of terror at the idea of embarking on this adventure. It’s ironic that having lost mobility due to MS and now confined to a wheelchair, I am planning to embark on an epic journey on the iconic Indian Pacific Railway to travel 4,352km from one side of our vast Australian continent to the other. From Sydney in New South Wales, I will be travelling to Perth in Western Australia. This is, reputedly, one of the world's great train journeys. 

I have not taken a long train journey before. For information and insight, I trawled the internet to find an account of the journey undertaken by someone in a similar situation; confined to a wheelchair. I have multiple sclerosis and although I cannot walk at all, I can stand with strong support. This enables me to transfer, in some situations unassisted and in others, requiring assistance. I haven’t found any information on this trip from a wheelchair user’s perspective, other than an account by a person who uses a wheelchair for assistance but is ambulatory. I may not be the first MS wheelchair traveller to travel on the Indian Pacific, but as it’s the first time I’ve taken this ambitious journey, I’m sharing my experience via this blog. 

My intention is to provide an honest account of the trip from my perspective. I’m not sure whether my experience will encourage or discourage others to consider the possibility of venturing into unchartered territory. Past experience has taught that travelling with a disability isn’t always a smooth ride. But I’m hoping the gamble will be worthwhile.

Let the adventure begin ………….